Building Your First Custom Keyboard
Step-by-step assembly guide for beginners building their first custom mechanical keyboard.
Building your own custom mechanical keyboard might sound intimidating, but it’s more approachable than you think. With the right components and this step-by-step guide, you’ll have a fully functional keyboard in just a few hours.
Welcome to the exciting world of custom mechanical keyboards! Building your first keyboard might seem intimidating, but we promise it’s easier than you think. This guide will walk you through every step, from unpacking your components to that satisfying moment when you type your first words on a keyboard you built yourself.
Take a deep breath. You’ve got this.
What You’ll Need
Essential Tools
Before you start, gather these tools. Most are common household items:
- Keycap puller (usually included with keycap sets)
- Switch puller (helpful but not required)
- Tweezers (for handling small components)
- Small Phillips screwdriver (for case screws)
- USB cable (to connect your keyboard)
Optional But Helpful
- Masking tape (for holding stabilizers in place)
- Lube brush (if pre-lubing switches)
- Good lighting (desk lamp recommended)
- Soft cloth (to protect your work surface)
Your Keyboard Components
Make sure you have all these before starting:
- âś“ PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
- âś“ Case (top and bottom pieces)
- âś“ Plate (metal or plastic mounting plate)
- âś“ Stabilizers (for larger keys)
- âś“ Switches (mechanical switches of your choice)
- âś“ Keycaps (full set matching your layout)
- âś“ Screws and mounting hardware (usually included with case)
Pro Tip: Lay out all your components on a clean workspace before starting. This helps you verify everything is present and prevents losing small parts.
Everything you need for your build - organized and ready to go
Step 1: Testing Your PCB
Time Required: 10-15 minutes
Before assembling anything, test your PCB. This critical step ensures you don’t build an entire keyboard only to discover the PCB was defective.
How to Test
-
Download testing software:
- Visit keyboardchecker.com or use VIA/QMK software
- No installation required for web-based testers
-
Connect the PCB:
- Plug your bare PCB into your computer via USB
- Most PCBs work immediately without drivers
-
Test each switch socket:
- Use tweezers or a bent paperclip
- Touch the two metal contact points for each switch position
- The testing software should register a keypress
- Test EVERY socket, even corner ones
-
Mark any problems:
- If a socket doesn’t register, try again to confirm
- Mark problematic sockets with tape
- Contact your seller if multiple sockets fail
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t skip this step. Testing after assembly is much harder
- Don’t assume all sockets work. Test every single one
- Don’t use metal tools roughly. Be gentle to avoid damaging contacts
Troubleshooting: If nothing registers, check your USB connection and try a different cable or port. Some PCBs need firmware flashing before first use.
Testing each socket with tweezers before assembly - this step saves hours later
Step 2: Installing Stabilizers
Time Required: 15-20 minutes
Stabilizers (or “stabs”) prevent larger keys from wobbling. They’re fiddly but crucial for a good typing experience.
Understanding Stabilizer Types
- Screw-in stabilizers: Screwed directly into PCB (most common, most stable)
- Clip-in stabilizers: Snap into PCB holes (easier installation)
- Plate-mount stabilizers: Attach to the plate (less common)
Installation Steps
-
Identify which keys need stabilizers:
- Spacebar (always)
- Shift keys (usually)
- Enter key (usually)
- Backspace (sometimes)
- Plus/Enter on numpad (if present)
-
Prepare the stabilizer:
- Assemble the wire into the housing pieces
- The wire should sit in the small grooves
- Ensure the wire moves smoothly
-
Install on PCB (screw-in type):
- Insert the stabilizer housing into the larger holes
- From the back, insert and tighten screws
- Don’t overtighten - snug is enough
- Check that the wire moves freely
-
Install on PCB (clip-in type):
- Align the stabilizer with the holes
- Press firmly until you hear/feel a click
- Gently tug to ensure it’s secure
-
Test movement:
- Press down on each stabilizer
- Movement should be smooth with minimal rattle
- The wire should return to neutral position
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t install upside down. The wire should be on the switch side
- Don’t forget the wire. Easy to do when you’re focused on the housings
- Don’t overtighten screws. This can crack the PCB
- Don’t skip the movement test. Better to catch issues now
Pro Tip: If stabilizers feel sticky or scratchy, you can apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the wire ends and housing contact points. This is optional for beginners.
Screw-in stabilizers properly installed - note the wire orientation and secure mounting
Step 3: Mounting the Plate
Time Required: 5-10 minutes
The plate provides structural support and determines your switch mounting type.
Installation Steps
-
Identify plate orientation:
- Look for any text or labels (should be face-up)
- Find the spacebar cutout (goes at bottom)
- Check switch cutouts match your layout
-
Align plate with PCB:
- Place plate over the PCB
- Align the switch holes with PCB sockets
- Ensure stabilizer cutouts line up with installed stabs
-
Add corner switches (important):
- Insert switches into the four corner positions
- Push through plate into PCB socket
- This holds the plate in position
- You should feel a firm click when switch seats properly
-
Verify alignment:
- Check that plate sits flush
- Ensure no gaps between plate and PCB
- Confirm all stabilizers move freely
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t force the plate. If it doesn’t align, remove and try again
- Don’t skip corner switches. They hold everything together
- Don’t bend the plate. Apply even pressure when seating switches
Note: Some keyboards use “plateless” designs where switches mount directly to the PCB. If that’s your build, skip this step entirely.
Plate secured with corner switches - this holds everything together for the next step
Step 4: Installing Switches
Time Required: 20-30 minutes
This is the most satisfying part - watching your keyboard come together, switch by switch.
Installation Steps
-
Organize your switches:
- Pour switches onto your workspace
- Orient them all the same direction
- Check each switch for bent pins (critical)
-
Inspect switch pins:
- Look at the bottom of each switch
- Pins should be straight and parallel
- Bent pins will not insert into sockets
- Gently straighten any bent pins with tweezers
-
Install switches row by row:
- Start from one side, work systematically
- Hold the plate/PCB sandwich firmly
- Align switch pins with PCB socket
- Push straight down until you feel/hear a click
- Don’t rock or wiggle the switch
-
Check each switch:
- After inserting, gently tug upward
- Switch should be firmly seated
- Look at the back - pins should be fully inserted
- Switch should not wobble excessively
-
Complete the full layout:
- Fill in all switch positions
- Double-check large keys have stabilizers underneath
- Ensure no gaps or unseated switches
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t force bent pins. This damages both switch and PCB socket
- Don’t insert at an angle. Always push straight down
- Don’t skip the inspection. One loose switch can cause issues
- Don’t rush. Take your time - this isn’t a race
Pro Tip: If a switch won’t seat, remove it and check the pins. 90% of switch installation problems are bent pins. Never force it.
First row of switches going in - push straight down until you feel the click
Special Note: Hotswap Sockets
If your PCB has hotswap sockets (common on beginner boards), switches should insert with gentle pressure. If you’re meeting strong resistance, stop and check for:
- Bent pins
- Socket misalignment
- Foreign objects in socket
Every switch installed and seated - your keyboard is taking shape
Step 5: Installing the PCB/Plate Assembly into the Case
Time Required: 10-15 minutes
Now we’ll house your keyboard in its case.
Installation Steps
-
Prepare the case:
- Remove any protective film or packaging
- Check for mounting posts or screw holes
- Place case bottom on your workspace
-
Install any case foam (if included):
- Some kits include foam dampening layers
- Place foam in bottom of case
- Align any cutouts with mounting posts
-
Lower the assembly:
- Hold your plate/PCB/switch assembly
- Carefully lower into the case bottom
- Align mounting holes with case posts
- Ensure USB port aligns with case cutout
-
Secure with screws:
- Insert all screws loosely first
- Tighten in a star pattern (prevents warping)
- Finger-tight plus a quarter turn is enough
- Don’t overtighten - plastic can strip
-
Test USB connection:
- Plug in the keyboard
- Check that connection feels solid
- USB port should align perfectly with case opening
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t overtighten screws. This can damage the PCB or case
- Don’t forget foam layers. They improve sound and feel
- Don’t force the assembly. If it doesn’t fit, find out why
- Don’t strip screws. Use the correct screwdriver size
Troubleshooting: If the case won’t close properly, remove the assembly and check for:
- Switches not fully seated in PCB
- Obstructions in case
- Incorrect screw holes being used
Lowering the assembly into the case - take your time to align the USB port perfectly
Step 6: Installing Keycaps
Time Required: 10-15 minutes
The final touch - adding your keycaps and bringing your keyboard to life.
Understanding Your Keycap Set
Most keycap sets organize keys by row:
- Row 1: Number row (top)
- Row 2: QWERTY row
- Row 3: ASDF row (home row)
- Row 4: ZXCV row
- Row 5: Spacebar row (bottom)
Different profiles (Cherry, OEM, SA) have different shaped rows. Make sure you’re installing the correct row.
Installation Steps
-
Organize keycaps by row:
- Separate keycaps into groups
- Identify special keys (spacebar, shift, enter)
- Reference a keyboard layout diagram if needed
-
Start with stabilized keys:
- Install spacebar first
- Then shift keys
- Then enter and backspace
- Test that they press smoothly
-
Install by row:
- Start with the home row (ASDF)
- Work outward to maintain reference point
- Align each keycap over the switch stem
- Press straight down until you hear a click
-
Check each keycap:
- Keycap should be level and not crooked
- No gaps between keycap and switch
- Gentle wiggle test - should be secure
-
Final verification:
- Look across the keyboard - all keycaps level?
- Run your hand across the surface - any loose caps?
- Check legends are oriented correctly
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t press at an angle. This can damage the switch stem
- Don’t forget row profiles. Wrong row = uncomfortable typing
- Don’t force stubborn keycaps. Check for obstructions first
- Don’t mix up similar keycaps. Caps Lock vs Shift are different sizes
Pro Tip: Take a photo of your keyboard layout before removing old keycaps (if upgrading). This helps when you can’t remember which key goes where.
Removing Keycaps (If Needed)
- Use a keycap puller for even pressure
- Pull straight up, not at an angle
- For large keys, pull from the center
- Store removed keycaps in a safe container
Installing keycaps row by row - almost there
Step 7: Final Testing and Quality Check
Time Required: 10-15 minutes
Don’t skip this step - it’s your quality control checkpoint.
Complete Testing Protocol
-
Visual inspection:
- All keycaps installed and level
- No visible gaps or misalignments
- Case properly assembled
- USB connection secure
-
Switch testing:
- Open a text editor
- Press every single key
- Verify each keystroke registers
- Check for double-typing (switch bounce)
-
Stabilizer testing:
- Press each stabilized key multiple times
- Listen for excessive rattle
- Check for binding or sticking
- Ensure keys return smoothly
-
Typing test:
- Type several sentences
- Test common key combinations
- Try typing at normal speed
- Check for any awkward feels
-
Special functions:
- Test function keys (F1-F12)
- Test modifier keys (Ctrl, Alt, Shift)
- Test media keys (if present)
- Test any programmable keys
What to Listen/Feel For
Good signs:
- Consistent sound across all keys
- Smooth keypress action
- Satisfying return springs
- Solid, premium feel
Warning signs:
- Keys that don’t register
- Keys that register twice per press
- Scratchy or inconsistent feel
- Excessive stabilizer rattle
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Don’t assume everything works. Test thoroughly
- Don’t ignore small issues. They often get worse
- Don’t test on important documents. Use a text editor
Troubleshooting: If a key doesn’t work:
- Check if keycap is properly seated
- Remove keycap and check switch installation
- Remove switch and inspect pins
- Test PCB socket with tweezers
- Reseat switch and test again
Your completed keyboard - congratulations on your first build
Take a moment to appreciate what you’ve created - you built this
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Problem: Switch doesn’t register
Solutions:
- Remove keycap and check switch is fully seated
- Remove switch and inspect for bent pins
- Test PCB socket with tweezers to confirm it works
- Reseat switch carefully, ensuring pins are straight
Problem: Key registers twice per press
Solutions:
- This is called “chatter” - usually a switch QC issue
- Try reseating the switch
- If persistent, replace the switch
- Can be fixed in firmware with debounce settings
Problem: Stabilizer rattles excessively
Solutions:
- Remove keycap and check stabilizer is properly clipped in
- Verify wire is seated correctly in housing
- Consider band-aid mod or lubing (advanced)
- Some rattle is normal on unlubed stabilizers
Problem: Key feels mushy or inconsistent
Solutions:
- Check if keycap is fully pressed onto stem
- Verify switch is completely seated in socket
- Check for debris in switch housing
- May need switch replacement if internal damage
Problem: Spacebar sounds different from other keys
Solutions:
- This is normal - spacebar has stabilizers
- Check wire is seated evenly on both sides
- Verify both stabilizer housings are installed correctly
- Consider lubing stabilizers (reduces rattle)
Problem: Case doesn’t close properly
Solutions:
- Check all switches are fully seated in PCB
- Verify no extra components blocking closure
- Ensure foam layers are positioned correctly
- Check USB daughter board cable routing (if present)
Problem: USB not recognized by computer
Solutions:
- Try different USB cable
- Try different USB port on computer
- Check PCB firmware is flashed correctly
- Inspect USB port on PCB for damage
Build Checklist
Print or save this checklist to track your progress:
Pre-Build:
- All components present and accounted for
- Tools gathered and ready
- Clean workspace prepared
- Good lighting available
PCB Testing:
- PCB connected to computer
- All switch sockets tested with tweezers
- Any dead sockets identified
- PCB verified working
Stabilizer Installation:
- Correct stabilizer positions identified
- All stabilizers assembled with wire
- Stabilizers installed and secure
- Movement tested on all stabilizers
Plate Mounting:
- Plate orientation verified
- Plate aligned with PCB
- Corner switches installed
- Alignment double-checked
Switch Installation:
- All switch pins inspected
- Bent pins straightened
- All switches installed
- Each switch pull-tested
Case Assembly:
- Case bottom prepared
- Foam installed (if included)
- PCB assembly installed
- Screws tightened properly
- USB alignment verified
Keycap Installation:
- Keycaps organized by row
- Stabilized keys installed first
- All keycaps installed
- Visual check completed
Final Testing:
- Visual inspection passed
- Every key tested individually
- Typing test completed
- Special functions verified
- No issues found
Build Time Estimates
For absolute beginners:
- PCB Testing: 15 minutes
- Stabilizers: 25 minutes
- Plate Mounting: 10 minutes
- Switch Installation: 40 minutes
- Case Assembly: 15 minutes
- Keycap Installation: 20 minutes
- Testing: 15 minutes
- Total: Approximately 2 hours 20 minutes
For second-time builders:
- Expected time: 1-1.5 hours
For experienced builders:
- Expected time: 30-45 minutes
Pro Tip: Don’t rush your first build. It’s not a race, and taking your time prevents mistakes that waste even more time fixing.
Your First Typing Session
Congratulations! You’ve just built your first custom mechanical keyboard. Here’s what to expect:
Break-In Period
- Switches may feel slightly stiff at first (normal)
- Sound may change slightly over first few days
- Stabilizers may settle and become smoother
- Your fingers need time to adjust to new feel
Enjoying Your Build
- Take time to appreciate what you’ve created
- Notice the difference from membrane keyboards
- Share your build with the community
- Take photos while it’s still pristine
Next Steps
- Learn basic keyboard maintenance
- Explore firmware customization (VIA/QMK)
- Consider switch modifications (filming, lubing)
- Start planning your next build
Final Tips for Success
Be Patient: Building a keyboard is a skill. Your first build will take longer than expected - that’s completely normal. Take breaks if you feel frustrated.
Ask for Help: The mechanical keyboard community is incredibly helpful. If you’re stuck, reach out on Reddit (r/MechanicalKeyboards), Discord servers, or keyboard forums.
Document Your Build: Take photos at each step. This helps if you need to troubleshoot later, and it’s fun to look back on your first build.
Don’t Pursue Perfection: Your first keyboard doesn’t need to be perfect. Minor stabilizer rattle, slight inconsistencies - these are all part of the learning process. You’ll improve with each build.
Celebrate Your Achievement: You just built a keyboard from scratch! That’s genuinely impressive. Most people never attempt anything like this. Be proud of what you’ve accomplished.
What’s Next?
Now that you’ve conquered your first build, you might be interested in:
- Switch modifications: Filming and lubing for smoother feel
- Custom firmware: Programming layers and macros with QMK/VIA
- Sound tuning: Adding foam, tape mods, case dampening
- Group buys: Joining the community to buy premium kits
- Artisan keycaps: Adding unique artistic keycaps to your board
The mechanical keyboard hobby is deep and rewarding. You’ve taken the first step on what could be a lifelong passion.
Happy typing!
Quick Reference Table
| Step | Time | Difficulty | Critical Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCB Testing | 15 min | Easy | Test every socket with tweezers |
| Stabilizers | 20 min | Medium | Ensure wire seated, test movement |
| Plate Mounting | 10 min | Easy | Install corner switches first |
| Switch Installation | 30 min | Easy | Check pins, push straight down |
| Case Assembly | 15 min | Easy | Don’t overtighten screws |
| Keycap Installation | 15 min | Easy | Match row profiles correctly |
| Final Testing | 15 min | Easy | Test every single key |
Total Build Time: 1-2 hours for beginners
Need Help?
Remember: every experienced builder was once exactly where you are now. The community is here to help, and there’s no such thing as a stupid question. You’ve got this!